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In rural Indiana, I grew up learning how to do my own oil changes, brakes, belts, oil gaskets, starters, fuel pumps, electrical repairs, water pumps, alternators, etc. Just about any general maintenance work there is to be done on a car. And I am going to unequivocally say that oil change places and brake repair joints are totally ripping you off unless you know what you’re doing. Not by just a few bucks, but by 2x and 4x and 10x and 100x times what you should be paying. Now, I still go to oil change places just because for $19 it’s a messy job I don’t want to do anymore. But if there is any service that deserves a 'buyer beware' sign bigger than eBay - this is it.
Oil change rip-offs - How it's done Frequency: This is #1. Ok, pull out your owners manual and check it for oil changes. See that it says anywhere from 6000-12000 miles (or more!)? What do oil change places say? Every 3000 miles. Total BS and I don't care what they say. Cars are designed to go longer between oil changes than ever before. Cadillac's Northstar cars were designed to run 50 miles with NO OIL. Why would your manufacturer who warranties the car lie - and the high school dropout with 4 good teeth know better? I do mine every 6k and that's plenty early - even with heavy city driving in hot weather. I've run 2 cars up to and over 200k miles this way with no ill effects.
Price: Everyone’s oil changes are exactly the same. Pull the drain plug, drain, put plug back in, remove filter, put new filter on, fill with oil. Everybody uses the same oil you can buy at Napa or Quik-e-Autoparts. The filters they use are generics 90% of the time (yes, I've looked and checked: Jiffy Lube, OilCan Henry's etc) - there is NOTHING fancy or better about your favorite oil change place. Raw materials are about $5-10 for everyone; and probably less for their bulk deals. So, the golden rule is never pay more than $19.95. Argue with them. Say that $29 is too high and most of the time they’ll drop it. Just drive off – there’s 50 of those joints around aren’t there? That said, you shouldn't be waiting in a huge line either, which leads to...
Leaving it: NEVER leave your car with these jokers. You have no idea what they'll be doing with your car over their lunch break/etc. These are high schoolers being 'managed' but a 25 year old dropout who likes cars. I had one friend who had oil sprayed INSIDE his car and permanently ruined the upholstery. They must have been having an oil fight with the sprayers. (They tried to repay the $100's in damage by free oil change services for the bill - which they quoted at full price). Another reported seeing folks cracking open 6-packs and driving to lunch with customer cars. Maybe to test everything out, maybe not. Don't wait in long lines either. An oil change should take 10 minutes - go during the week or something - not on weekends where they'll have you for hours. I drive around during the week on my normal errands and if the sign says $19.95 and there is no line - there you go. They will just naturally not screw around when they know your sitting there. They'll usually go faster too.
Up-selling: Simple economics tell you that oil change places can’t keep those spiffy buildings, give out free papers and/or coffee, environmentally dispose of the oil and stay in business for $19 per oil change. They simply must sell services to make any real profit – so they push those - and push them hard. They will tell you your air filter is dirty ($20), your belts are cracked ($60), you have an oil leak and need a new oil pan/oil cover/etc gasket, you should use their super-special synthetic oils, you need a new headlight, tail light, break light, backup light, etc ($20). I have literally had folks tell me about each of these components being bad or 'dirty' when I just changed them myself for 1/10th those prices - only days before I came in. Real prices: air filter: $5-10, serpentine belt: $10-20, bulbs: $2.99-$8. Real replacement rates: every 20k - 100k depending on the part - some never. The other is 'flushes' - see below. Odds are 99.999% that you need NONE of these things. If you need further reason to pass on these things,
think of it this way. If you go to a reputable repair shop,
they'll charge you once for the hour or so of labor to fix these trivial
things plus the cost of the item. At this oil joints, they don't
know which ones and what combination you'll be buying so they price and
charge you for the parts and the labor for each item. Fix three
things: you pay for the parts and labor 3 times. Long story short - refuse EVERYTHING no matter what they say or show you. If you drove in on it, you can drive out. If it really concerns you - note it and take it to your local repair shop for a second opinion.
Flushes: These didn't really even exist 10 years ago, are not recommended by most manufacturers, and much more likely to damage your engine than just leaving it alone. A flush of any unit: coolant, tranny, transfer case, oil, brake, etc is ONLY needed if there is some problem you’re trying to diagnose – and should be done as a part of the diagnostic process at a regular repair shop – not by your local high-school drop outs. Regular oil changes are all your car really needs. Maybe an antifreeze flush when the manufacturer recommends it (around 100k miles); but I’ve run cars for 100-200k and never flushed without a single problem. It’s a sealed environment – if nothing gets in – there isn’t anything to flush. All these things are the most perfect example of 'If it ain't broke - don't fix it' mantra. You are MUCH more likely to get into trouble doing these than leaving alone a system that is working fine. Recently US truck manufacturers (GM and I believe Ford) have come out and said that crank and transfer case ‘flushes’ are likely to do damage the components, are not recommended, and are of ‘dubious benefit’. Oil flush machines frighten the heck out of me. Oil was never meant to be pressured or ‘flushed’ through the system. I always cringe at what is going on with your seals, head gaskets, and the like when these machines are running god knows what chemicals that were never intended to be put through them. Engine seals were designed to run a lifetime safely in their oil bath - not in any chemical you wish to pour into them. Engines were designed so particles drain into safe areas to collect and stay put/drain normally. Pressure flushes may very well stir all that junk up. Also, I would bet at a number of shops, a ‘flush’ is simply 2 oils change at a higher price, or they just throw in a can of oil treatment that consumer reports has shown to be of 'questionable' effectiveness. Cars were designed not to need these any of these things during normal use and get better every year.
Recheck when you leave: My sister, along with numbers of other horror stories, have experienced the worst. They forget to refill the oil after the change. Usually you get about 2 miles and either you catch it in time with the tell-tale check engine light to only lessen the life of your car by 2-5 years - or your engine seizes and becomes a $3000 paperweight. You simply must stop and turn the car off immediately. Get oil in the thing immediately and then expect them to deny everything. Be real clear on what you're signing as you drive off - it's waving them of everything. If it says you agree everything's perfect - get out and check it all yourself if they didn't show you full dipsticks. My sister was lucky - no problems at all. Other jewels I've personally heard: forgetting to refill the radiator, leaving the radiator cap/plug off and it all drains away = blown engine. Leaving the oil plug out/loose so it leaks. Long story short. Drive 2-3 blocks, stop for a coke, and check the oil level again. Make sure nothings pouring out the bottom.
How they operate and do it: Emotional pressure/half-truths: So, see how dirty your air filter is? Don’t you want that oil flush treatment so your cute little car is all shinny and new inside? These belts are horribly cracked and if they break you'll be stranded on the side of the road! Gunk builds up on parts X,Y,Z and rob you of performance/gas mileage/etc. If you don’t get this taken care of – it could cost you thousands in repairs!! Just about EVERYTHING that comes out of these guys mouths is an exaggeration or half-truth about the state of things. I do admire who figured this system out though - it was clearly well thought out. When you pull into these joints, everything is designed to give them the authority and upper hand. They work with a clock-like efficiency and scripted-ness (they always do things the same way don't they? Run over, bring the paper/details, yell out what they're doing while they do it, etc) all designed to make them look like they know what they're doing and saying - when in reality folks - this stuff is easier than putting together an Ikea nightstand. But all this military-like precision gives the effect of 'we know exactly what we're doing and saying'. It's hard to question - unless you've done your homework. But at the end of the day - you are the one that makes the decisions - and saying no is just fine. Here's how to sift through it:
1. Repairing/replacing things way, way, way sooner than they need. Their favorite items: air filters, belts, oil detergents/additives, radiator/transmission/transfer case flushes. Did you notice they always take down your license plate? I found that at least Oil Can Henry's follows a script based on the number of visits you make, not if it really needs doing. How do I know? I went to two different places every other time - and on the 2nd visit to each - they said I needed a radiator flush, the 3rd was an engine detergent/clean, etc. They even used the same words. This wasn't because they saw it really needed doing, they were just reading the script the computer gave them. Unless you know it needs to be replaced because it’s physically not working (in which case you probably wouldn’t be driving it in at all). Make a note and take it to your regular mechanic or just forget about it. Odds are good it’s perfectly fine. On average, I find they take the suggested repair/replacement mileage recommendation and halve it; or just make one up. The way you know they are trying to use this tactic is if their lips are moving. Any time they say: “Oh, this is so dirty/cracked, it’s rob you of gas mileage/performance/etc or leave you stranded by the roadside!” they are 99% of the time grossly exaggerating. I've asked them to show me the cracks in the belt once and there was just normal wear (I'd replaced the belt myself just a month or two earlier). They stood around pointing at it going - yep - it's cracked - when it wasn't! Cars are internal COMBUSTION engines – they BURN things inside - they get dirty. But dirty does not mean it is not working properly. The inside of your car was not designed to look like your house before a dinner party. Find out at what mileage your manufacturer recommends in your manual about air filters, oil changes, radiator flushes, etc. And then realize that’s the 70 percentile for repairs – you can easily go 20-30% longer than that. I’m an engineer – you always build in 20-50% tolerances depending on the item. 2. Emotional appeals: Wouldn’t you like to be nice to your cute little car? It’s been so nice to you. How about pampering your little baby. Hello! News flash!!! Your car is a mechanical object without feeling. And I don’t care if you named it Betsy or Grabel or whatever-the-f your compensating for. It doesn’t ‘feel’ anything - and it certainly doesn't feel anything towards you. I blame Disney for the fact we anthropomorphize everything in our culture. Mechanical objects function or do not. Get it fixed or don’t – but do it because you have someone who knows what they're talking about look at it – not because of some emotional need to baby it. 3. Oh, you simply must or you'll be sorry - no, actually I don't. And if I don't, it's my call - thanks. I've done my homework and that 'dirty' air filter still has 30k on it. Just beat out the perfectly NORMAL dust/leaf or two and put it back - thanks. 4. Flat out lying: – not as common, but I’ve had it happen to me. I couldn't believe it when it happened. I was told my reverse lights were out and needed changing. I went and tested them later to do it myself, and they were fine. Jiffy Lube in Beaverton, OR in case your curious.
Brake places: Just. Don’t. Go. I took my car in to check the pad levels and each time they tell me they need to replace the rotors, pads, maybe the drums, all at like $400+. Even when I could see the pads were only about 50% worn. Total crap. Total. I have taught people how to do their own pads and we can do the whole front on almost any car in less than 60 minutes – with me showing on one side, and they doing the other. A set of both front pads for almost any car are about $35. If the rotors are warped or scored (rarely), they can be turned for a minimal charge at most parts stores. I run the same rotors on almost all cars for at least 150k if not a lot, lot more. And if you do want to replace them, they’re about $70/pair for new, or go to the junkyard for $5-10 . Rear brakes are either disc (in which case they’re the same as the fronts) or drums. Yes, drums are more difficult to work with and do need one extra $15 tool. Sometimes you might need a spring set ($20-40 for both sides depending on model) along with the pads $30, and additionally turn the drums if their scored/warped. But rears wear out about 3 times slower than the fronts (i.e. you’ll do the fronts 2-3x before you’ll have to touch the rears) The average front brake job runs me $35 and 1 hour of my time. At worse, a full job might run $150 if I do both fronts, backs, and need to replace extra parts. As with oil places, the want to replace everything much, much earlier than the manuals recommend. They use very common generic parts (contrary to what they say) that are the same as Napa or Kwick-e-Auto sells. These guys always like up-selling brake master cylinders and so forth. Unless you know its bad – get a second opinion from a non-brake job place. The only time I go in to these jokers is if one of my drums or lugs are stuck. I go to get a ‘quote’, and they get to struggle and pull off the stuck components to do the quote. I say thanks but no thanks and drive off to do the work myself with the newly freed up components. That’s all they’re good for.
Muffler joints: I’ll throw this in too. Sure they give you a lifetime warranty, but you have to pay the labor to have the free muffler put in – and that costs the same as if you went somewhere else. I found these joints put in totally crappy, bottom of the market mufflers and do a terrible job welding them up too. Go to a local guy and pay a bit more – you’ll have to pay it anyway. Now I feel better. :) |